Winter Camping

Wyoming’s Wind River Mountains, Bighorn Mountains, and numerous wilderness areas are a hubbub of activity each summer, but when the first snows start shrouding the world in a pristine blanket of white tranquility, the forests assume a whole new level of splendor. As most of the crowds retreat home to relax in front of a cozy fire, Wyoming’s lofty mountain settings beckon winter enthusiasts to step away from the indoors and experience the Cowbowy State in a whole new way. While winter camping is certainly not everyone’s idea of a great outdoor experience, the sport is catching on across the Rocky Mountain West. Whether you’re on a cross-country trek, snowshoeing along a mountain ridge, or climbing a frozen waterfall, winter camping provides the opportunity to extend your trip and awaken your senses to the winter beauty of Wyoming. Winter campers, however, must be prepared for a variety of situations and should adhere to the following guidelines for the safest possible trip.

Planning
Before setting out on any winter camping adventure, recreationists should spend plenty of time in the planning stage. This includes planning out your route and accounting for the variety of skill levels that may be present among your traveling companions. It also means studying snow levels (shallow or deep), snow and trail quality (powder, packed, breakable crust, avalanche danger), and your mode of travel (skiing, hiking, or snowshoeing). During the planning stage, never underestimate Mother Nature’s power or cut yourself short on time. Winter travel in the backcountry takes approximately twice as long as a normal summer hike, so give yourself plenty of time to arrive at and return from your destination. Last, but certainly not least, make sure a family member or friend knows your travel plans and route. They can serve as a lifesaver and notify authorities if you do not return when expected.

Gear & Clothing
Once you’re ready to begin your winter backcountry adventure, your gear and clothing play a vital role in how comfortable your trip will be. The key to staying warm in the winter is a layered clothing system. Select wool or synthetic layers that will keep you warm but also wick away moisture. Always wear long underwear and a windproof/waterproof outer shell, and avoid wearing cotton and jeans if at all possible. Boots should be tall enough to provide proper ankle support, and thick wool socks are noted for keeping feet warm for hours. Protect your hands and head with gloves and a stocking cap...you lose the most body heat from these extremities, so do all you can to conserve that important heat energy. Although it may be winter, the sun still shines brightly in Montana and the reflection off the snow can be blinding at times. Sunglasses and sunscreen are highly recommended.

In addition to warm, moisture-wicking clothing, winter campers must be outfitted with the proper gear. Most wilderness areas do not feature pre-made shelters, so outdoor users must be prepared with a four-season tent. Make sure the tent is strong enough to handle both wind and snow and is capable of shedding snow so your roofline doesn’t cave during the middle of the night. Never underestimate your need for room. You may be able to store your gear outside during the summer, but with winter camping, you’ll likely want to store your backpacks and clothing inside the tent. Account for this need when selecting a tent. You may also wish to bring along a frost liner to hang inside your tent. The liner allows condensation created during the night from your breathing to pass through to the tent wall. The liner then acts as a barrier between you and your ice-covered tent wall. Whether or not you opt for this handy barrier, make sure all ice particles created inside your tent during the night are swept outside each morning.

Food & Water
Winter camping is hard work, and your body is going to need plenty of refueling. Although you might assume that treking through the snow would increase your appetite, the reverse is actually true. Despite your body’s need for increased food intake, winter activity inherently reduces the body’s appetite for food. In packing your food, be sure your meals sound appealing while bringing along a balance of proteins, carbohydrates, and fats. Hot meals should be prepared with campstoves instead of campfires, and snacking along the trail throughout the day is highly encouraged. You may feel energetic without eating much food at first, but don’t let your body fool you. You need food in order to persevere on the trail and make it safely to and from your destination.

Just as with summer backcountry travel, never assume that your water source is pure and clean. Always boil your water or pack along iodine tablets or a water filter to treat one of your trip’s most precious commodities. Although it may seem like a good idea at first, melting snow as your water source can actually be a tedious process that eats away at time you could have spent wandering through the beautiful outdoors. Select a different water source if possible.

Other Things to Keep in Mind
Frostbite and hypothermia are often the greatest dangers for winter campers. Make sure you know how to recognize the signs of each condition as well as how to deliver preliminary treatment before the person can be transported to a medical facility. Never travel alone, and always be alert for avalanche conditions.

The pristine atmosphere of Wyoming’s wintry outdoors is certainly beautiful and capable of creating one-of-a-kind memories. Winter camping, however, is not worth losing your life. So protect yourself and the lives of those joining you, and plan ahead. With the right gear, food, and outdoor knowledge, your Wyoming winter camping experience could be one of the best trips of your life!

Thermopolis: World’s Largest Hot Springs

Founded in 1897 and now boasting a population of just over 3,100 residents, Thermopolis is a name derived from the Latin thermae (meaning hot spring) and the Greek polis (meaning city). With the world’s largest natural hot spring, running at 2,575 gallons per minute at a consistent 135 degrees Fahrenheit, the town grew quickly as people were drawn to the therapeutic waters. The Shoshone and other Native Americans had appreciated its healing properties for generations and called it the “smoking waters.” This was once sacred ground and part of the Wind River Reservation when it was first established. Shoshone Chief Washakie and Arapaho chief Sharp Nose, as part of efforts with the white men, made a portion of the waters available for public use.

Today, those public waters have become a primary attraction drawing national attention to this small Wyoming town. Water parks with slides, soaking pools, and saunas feature the spring’s legendary water and are open year-round for a small admission fee. The area also boasts Hot Springs State Park featuring multicolored mineral terraces, a thriving bison herd, Legend Rock Petroglyph site, a boat ramp to the Big Horn River, phenomenal views from the famous “Swinging Bridge,” and a State Bath House with hot mineral water maintained at a comfortable soaking temperature of 104 degrees Fahrenheit.

Partially reprinted from “The Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia”

Ski Wyoming

With world-renowned ski destinations like Big Sky Resort in Montana, Vail and Aspen in Colorado, and Park City in Utah, Wyoming’s ski areas often seem like the lost little sibling trailing in the distance. But for those individuals caught up in the limelight of multimillion dollar advertising at these major resorts, they are missing out on a surprising world of unrivaled powder and fabulous skiing at fairly affordable prices. Check out these Wyoming ski areas for yourselves, and discover that there’s more to the Rocky Mountain skiing world than Montana, Colorado, and Utah!

Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
By far the most recognizeable name in Wyoming skiing, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort boasts legendary terrain amid the breathtaking beauty of the Grand Teton Mountains. The area was first explored in the 1800s and was preserved from residential development. As a result, the area today boasts 2,500 acres of skiing and snowboarding terrain on two mountains. Miles of difficult ungroomed runs with unbelievable powder await intermediate and advanced skiiers with a maximum vertical drop of 4,139 feet. Beginners are treated to 22 miles of machine-groomed runs. The resort also offers skiing and snowboarding lessons from professionals and the occasional Olympic champion as well as kids activities, heli-skiing, wildlife sightseeing, and ski-in/ski-out lodging and dining.

Snow King Resort
Nestled in downtown Jackson in northwest Wyoming, Snow King Resort is recognized as Wyoming’s first official ski area and also as the birthplace of the nation’s innovative “Great American Ski School.” Although the resort may be Wyoming’s oldest, it has kept pace with the latest trends and offers a variety of terrain to suit skiers and snowboarders of all capabilities. The resort’s 400 acres provide 31 trails along with a maximum vertical of 1,571 feet. In addition to standard daytime downhill skiing, Snow King offers night-skiing, a sledding/tubing hill, 30 kilometers of cross-country ski trails, an indoor skating rink, and convenient access to shopping, lodging, and downtown dining as Jackson’s most comprehensive resort and conference facility.

Grand Targhee Resort
Grand Targhee Resort rests just 40 miles west of Jackson near the small town of Alta on the Wyoming/Idaho border. Famous for receiving an annual average of 500-plus inches of supreme white fluffiness, Grand Targhee is frequently featured in national skiing magazines for its unbeatable powder conditions. The area is known for its affordability and family-friendly approach, and its two mountains provide a variety of terrain. While the 1,500-acre Fred’s Mountain features a vertical drop of 2,200 feet and terrain appropriate for beginners to the advanced, the 3,000-acre Peaked Mountain is strictly limited to snowcat powder skiing. For those uninterested in the downhill skiing experience, Grand Targhee offers a freestyle half-pipe for snowboarders and 15 groomed kilometers of cross-country skiing. Discover for yourself the breathtaking beauty of the Targhee National Forest at a destination 8,000 feet above sea level!

Sleeping Giant Ski Area
Sleeping Giant Ski Area is another old Wyoming ski area that continues to be a favorite among recreationists who have experienced its terrain. Established in 1936 and 1937 near Yellowstone National Park’s East Entrance, Sleeping Giant Ski Area boasts plenty of natural snowfall, receiving over 500 inches each year. Unsurpassed scenery awaits along with Wyoming’s abundant signature sunlight, ideal winter temperatures, and non-existent wind. The area provides 17 expertly groomed trails perfect for beginners to advanced skiers.

White Pine Ski Area
Known for its family-friendly hospitality and hometown atmosphere, this favorite local ski hill is perfect for those days when you want to maximize your time on the slopes. Short lift lines and uncrowded slopes are the norm at White Pine, and skiers and snowboarders are treated to spectacular views of the nearby Continental Divide, Wind River Mountains, and Fremont Lake. The area also offers miles of nordic ski trails and a lodge with ski-in/ski-out dining.

Big Horn Ski Resort
This once small ski resort situated on the western side of Buffalo in northcentral Wyoming’s beautiful Bighorn Mountains has garnered national attention since its 2003 renovation. Situated at the base of High Park Peak near scenic Meadowlark Lake just west of Powder River Pass, Big Horn Ski Resort is known for its deep, light powder, 14 well-groomed runs catering to all levels of skiing, and exceptional terrain. With cliff skiing/snowboarding and the longest half-pipe in the state, it comes as no surprise that Big Horn Ski Resort was recently ranked Wyoming’s “#1 Terrain Park.” In addition to skiing and snowboarding, the resort offers restaurants, bars, lodging, and snowmobile rentals during its November through April operating season. The Big Horn Mountain Lodge is also a popular summer wedding/reception destination with reservations booking several months in advance.

Hogadon Ski Area
Situated just nine miles south of Casper in central Wyoming, Hogadon Ski Area is known for its balanced mix of skiing and snowboarding terrain. The 60-acre ski area features 18 trails along with a maximum vertical of 600 feet. All trails are open to snowboarders, and the terrain is suited to beginners, intermediate skiers, and those with advanced skills. In addition to its downhill terrain, Hogadon provides a fully-accredited ski school, rentals, a restaurant, and snack bar. Nearby, the Natrona County Parks Nordic Ski Area grooms 15 miles of cross-country trails and 60 miles of snowmobile trails. Lodging is available in nearby Casper.

Snowy Range Ski and Recreation Area
Snowy Range Ski and Recreation Area is nestled in the beautiful Medicine Bow-Routt National Forest just 5 miles from Centennial, Wyoming and 32 miles from Laramie. The area is renowned for its relaxed atmosphere, abundant snowfall, numerous trails providing runs for skiers of all abilities, and the Renegade Snowboarding Park. The area also features the accredited Snowy Range Ski School, snowboarding lessons, the Children’s Ski and Snow Play School, equipment rental, a restaurant/lounge, and a gift shop.

National Elk Refuge: Elk, Sleigh Rides, & Winter Fun

In late October and early November, thousands of elk begin their traditional migration from high summer range in Grand Teton National Park, southern Yellowstone National Park, and the neighboring national forests to lower elevation winter range in Jackson Hole. Heavy snows force the animals to lower elevations in search of food, and usually more than 7,500 elk make their way to the National Elk Refuge to spend the winter. With a longstanding history, the National Elk Refuge attracts attention from today’s visitors with exceptional wildlife viewing as well as sleigh rides, wagon rides, and other outdoor recreation.

Establishment of the National Elk Refuge
Hundreds of years before the settlment of this country, elk ranged from the eastern states through central and western North America. They grazed the open prairies, mountain valleys, and foothills. As settlers pushed slowly westward, the distribution of the elk was rapidly reduced to the western mountains. By 1900, elk had disappeared from more than 90 percent of their original range.

When settlers arrived in Jackson Hole in the late 1800s, there may have been as many as 25,000 elk in the entire valley. The town of Jackson was built in a large portion of elk winter range.

Establishment of farms and ranches further reduced elk from their traditional wintering areas. Livestock competed for winter food, and hungry elk raided haystacks. These severe conflicts between humans and elk diminished the Jackson elk population.

In the early 1900s, severe winters with deep crusted snow also took a serious toll on the wintering elk. The refuge was created in 1912 as a result of public interest in the survival of the Jackson elk herd. Today the refuge continues to preserve much of the remaining elk winter range in the valley, approximately one-quarter of the original Jackson Hole winter range. Elk stay on the refuge for approximately six months each winter. An eight-foot high fence along the main highway and along the northern border of town prevents elk from moving through Jackson and onto private lands.

The nearly 25,000-acre National Elk Refuge is administered by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and is one of more than 500 refuges in the National Wildlife Refuge System. This system was established to preserve a national network of lands and waters for the conservation and management of the fish, wildlife, and plants of the United States for the benefit of present and future generations.

History
The Jackson Elk Herd, estimated at approximately 14,000 animals, probably owes its prosperity to local citizens who were here about 1906-1912.

Following the removal of most of the beaver by trappers prior to 1840, the Jackson Hole country was virtually uninhabited by settlers until 1884. Only hunting/gathering Native Americans (mostly Shoshone, Bannock, and Arapahoe) summered here until about the end of the Civil War (1865). Sixty-four people lived in Jackson Hole when the Wyoming Territory became a state in 1890. Nearby Yellowstone had become the world’s first national park in 1872. By the late 1890s and early 1900s, conversion of historic elk winter range to domestic livestock use began to pose a hardship situation for the elk.

However, even before the Jackson Hole environment was changed somewhat by the arrival of settlers, significant numbers of elk died from starvation in winter. Early hunters and settlers noted that winters of unusually heavy snow resulted in death by starvation for thousands of elk. Survival of large numbers of elk was complicated further by the severe winters of 1909,1910, and 1911 that put the herd in serious trouble. In order to survive, the elk raided ranchers’ haystacks, but many still starved to death. Although the ranchers did not want to see the elk die, they could not afford to lose their hay and remain in the ranching business.

The first official suggestion for a permanent elk refuge in Jackson Hole was made in 1906 by the Wyoming State Game Warden, D.C. Nowling, who, following his retirement from that post, became the first manager of the National Elk Refuge. Area residents gained statewide sympathy for the continuing elk losses, and appeals for assistance spread through many other states. As a result, in 1911 the Wyoming Legislature asked Congress to cooperate with the State in appropriations for “feeding, protecting, and otherwise preserving the big game which winters in great numbers within the confines of the State of Wyoming.” Less than a month later, appropriated $20,000 for feeding, protecting, and transplanting elk and ordered an investigation of the elk situation in Wyoming.

After this assessment by the Federal Government, $45,000 was appropriated by an act of Congress on August 10, 1912 for the purchase of lands and maintenance of a refuge for wintering elk.

By 1916, from a combination of public domain lands and private lands, 2,760 acres had been acquired for the National Elk Refuge. For more than ten years no additions were made to the refuge itself. In 1918, the U.S. Forest Service lands adjacent to the east side of the refuge were classified as big game winter range, and although they were not made part of the refuge, livestock grazing was restricted.

In 1972, Congress accepted title to 1,760 acres of private ranch lands that had been acquired and donated by the Izaak Walton League of America, expanding the refuge to 4,520 acres.

Congress, in a 1935 act that became known as the “Six Million Dollar Fund,” designated money for purchase of wildlife lands throughout the United States. From this, about 16,400 additional acres of private lands were acquired for the National Elk Refuge. Also, 3,783 acres of public domain lands were added by Presidential Executive orders in 1935 and 1936.

Today, the refuge consists of nearly 25,000 acres devoted to elk winter range. This represents the last remaining elk winter range in Jackson Hole.

The portion of the Jackson Elk Herd that winters on the National Elk Refuge averages approximately 7,500 animals yearly. Elk are on the refuge for about six months each year from November to May, freeranging for about 3.5 months and using supplemental feed for about 2.5 months, usually from late January until April.

Supplemental feeding began in 1910 when the Wyoming Legislature appropriated $5,000 to purchase all available hay in the valley to feed the elk. The supply of hay was inadequate and hundreds of elk died that winter. This was followed in 1911 with feed for elk from the $20,000 appropriated by Congress. Supplemental feed has been provided for the elk in all but nine winters since then. In 1975, a change was made from baled hay to pelletized alfalfa hay.

A Presidential “Commission on the Conservation of the Elk of Jackson Hole, Wyoming,” was established and active from 1927 through 1935. Its membership, which included the Governor of Wyoming, developed the following tenet: The Jackson Elk Herd in the State of Wyoming is a national resource combining economic, aesthetic, and recreation values in which the State of Wyoming, the Federal Government, private citizens, and civic and sportsmen’s organizations are actively and intensely interested.

In 1958, currently active Jackson Hole Cooperate Elk Studies Group was formed, composed of the Wyoming Game & Fish Department, the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, the U.S. Forest Service, and the National Park Service. The principal purpose of this group is to coordinate plans, programs, and findings of studies, and to provide an exhance of ideas, information, and personnel to study the elk herd and its habitat. All four agencies have legal responsibilities for management of the elk herd and its habitat. A better understanding and appreciation of individual agency objectives and responsibilities and closer cooperation have been attained since the establishment of the study group.

The refuge is dedicated primarily to the perpetuation of the nation’s majestic elk, for us and future generations to enjoy.

Refuge Management
Refuge grasslands are managed to produce as much natural forage for elk as possible through extensive irrigation, seeding, prescribed burning, and other practices. These management practices enhance elk winter habitat and reduce the need for supplemental feeding. However, when deep or crusted snow prevents the elk from grazing, or the natural forage is depleted, refuge personnel feed the herds pelletized alfalfa. These 2- to 3-inch pellets have higher nutritional value than average baled hay and are easier for refuge staff to store and distribute to the elk. Elk are usually fed about 7 to 8 pounds per animal per day, which equals about 30 tons per day for a herd of 7,500 elk.The elk receive supplemental alfalfa for approximately 2.5 months during an average winter.

The number of elk wintering on the refuge must be limited to avoid overuse of the range and to reduce the potential spread of diseases common when herd animals are crowded. Refuge staff, in consultation with the Wyoming Game & Fish Department, have determined that a maximum of 7,500 (more than half the total Jackson elk herd) elk is optimum for the refuge. Herd numbers are maintained through a late fall controlled hunt on the refuge and adjacent public lands.

Elk Facts

* Elk are the second largest antlered animals in the world; only moose are larger. Bull elk are 4.5 to 5 feet tall at the shoulder and weigh 550 to 800 pounds. Cow elk weigh from 450 to 600 pounds. The refuge elk herd consists of approximately 20% bulls, 65% cows, and 15% calves.
* The majority of adult elk on the refuge are between 3 and 10 years old. The oldest animals in the herd are 15-30 years old, but these individuals represent a very small part of the refuge population. The age on an elk can be determined by examining milk tooth replacement, wear on permanent teeth, and annual dental rings.
* While most members of the deer family are primarily browsers (feeding on twigs and leaves of shrubs and trees), elk are both browsers and grazers, feeding extensively on grasses and forbs, as well as shrubs.
* Grizzly bears, black bears, mountain lions, wolves, and coyotes prey on elk. By weeding out the weak, predators help maintain healthy, vigorous elk herds.

More Elk Facts

* Adult bull elk have large, branched antlers. Contrary to popular belief, there is no exact relationship between age and number of antler points, but the number of points may be used to estimate an animal’s age. Bulls between 1 and 2 years old have short, unbranched antlers called spikes. By age 3, bulls usually have antlers with three to four points on each side. Older bulls carry antlers with five, six, or sometimes seven points on each side. Mature bulls with six points per side are called royal bulls, and those with seven points are called imperial bulls. On rare occasions you might see a bull displaying antlers with eight points on each side; these bulls are known as monarchs.
* Large bulls shed their antlers during March and April every year, while the smaller bulls lose their antlers during April or early May. Mice, squirrels, and other animals chew on the shed antlers to get needed minerals. Antlers dropped on the refuge are collected by local Boy Scouts, who sell them at an annual public auction (the 3rd Saturday in May) to help raise money for both the scouts and for winter elk feed management. The public may not collect or remove antlers from the refuge.
* New antlers begin to grow as soon as the old ones are shed. They develop through the summer and reach maturity by mid-August. By this time, the antler’s “velvet,” or outer blood-rich skin has dried, and the bull rubs the dead velvet off on small trees and shrubs. A bull’s antlers are hard and shiny by the fall breeding season (the “rut”).
* Elk leave the lower elevations in April and May, following the receding snowline back into the cool, high country, where they spend the summer. These animals travel distances varying from a few miles up to 100 miles during migration from the refuge to Grand Teton National Park, southern Yellowstone National Park, and national forest lands to the north and northeast of Jackson Hole. A few elk remain near the wooded areas of the refuge during the summer months.
* From late May to mid-June, cows bear their young in secluded thickets on higher terrain. A cow typically has one calf that weighs 30 to 40 pounds. The calves are reddish colored and spotted at birth. Very few calves are born on the refuge, since the majority of elk migrate back to the high country before calving occurs.
* The breeding season (or “rut”) occurs in September and early October, while the elk are in the high country. At this time, the high-pitched “bugling” of the mature bulls can be heard as they gather harems of cows and challenge rival bulls. During the rut, bulls vigorously defend their harems of half a dozen to 15 or more cows.
* In late fall, snow begins to fall in the high country, and the elk herds migrate back to their lower elevation winter range.

Wildlife and Their Habitat
Refuge habitat includes grassy meadows and marshes spread across the valley floor, timbered areas bordering the Gros Ventre (GroVONT) River, and sagebrush and rock outcroppings along the foothills. This habitat diversity provides a variety of food, water, and shelter that support the rich mixture of wildlife species found at the refuge.

While elk are the primary reason the refuge was established, 47 species of mammals are found here year-around or during seasonal migration to and from surrounding areas. Moose, bighorn sheep, bison, and mule deer are common winter residents on the refuge. Wolves, coyotes, badgers, and Uinta ground squirrels are also seen. Other common wildlife species include muskrat, beaver, porcupine, long-tailed weasel, and voles or meadow mice.

Visitor Opportunities
The National Elk Refuge lies northeast of the town of Jackson, Wyoming, and directly south of Grand Teton National Park. The winter season, between November and April, is the best time to view elk and other wildlife on the refuge. To protect refuge wildlife and their habitats, public use activities are primarily confined to the main, unpaved roads on the refuge. Paved turnouts on the west side of the refuge along U.S. Highway 26 (leading to Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks) are provided for viewing and photographing refuge wildlife.

From mid-December through late March, daily horse-drawn sleigh rides (or wagons, if weather conditions require them) offer visitors a close-up look at the elk herd. Sleigh rides begin at the National Museum of Wildlife Art, two- and-a-half miles north of Jackson on U.S. Highway 26, 89, 191. Visitors to the museum can also learn about elk and management of the refuge through a slide show, videos, exhibits, and by talking with refuge personnel. Sleigh riders are encouraged to bundle up, since they are likely to be exposed to very cold temperatures and chilling winds.

Limited hiking opportunities exist on the refuge, and there is no overnight parking or camping. Camping is available in nearby national parks and national forests.

Reprinted from “The Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia”. Source: U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service